Casual Dining:
Skilled Hands Behind the Counter at Tejano BBQ Burrito

Montreal Gazette

By SARAH MUSGRAVE special to THE MONTREAL GAZETTE:

Tejano BBQ Burrito

Good bet
$
511 de Courcelle St. (near Notre Dame St. W.)
Phone: 514-303-3500
Website: www.tejanobbqburrito.com
Licensed: No
Credit cards: MC, Visa
Wheelchair accessible: One step up
Vegetarian friendly: Limited
Open: Tues.-Wed. & Sun. 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Thurs.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., closed Mon.
Price range: Burritos, tostadas and salads $7-$12

The burritos are quite literally bursting at the seams at St-Henri’s tiny Tejano. Watching the guys behind the counter fill orders is kind of compelling, just to witness the sheer amount of stuff they manage to contain in a single tortilla shell. We’re not talking about the sushi chef precision of maki-making here, but a skilled hand for the fold-over and tuck, when ingredients threaten to spill out comically, is crucial. That’s followed by shaping and swaddling in foil, along with some commentary about how it feels like a good one, before it’s handed over.

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This one-purpose shop was opened in December by Dylan Kier and Clara Barron, who run the popular Verdun smokery Blackstrap BBQ, partnering here with neighbourhood booster Ryan Bloom (of cute nearby bakery Rustique Pie Kitchen). Off-action from Notre Dame, it’s located on a quiet street across the tracks from the tacos of Grumman 78 and the doughnuts of Léché Desserts. It’s the kind of place where you can keep your coat on while you eat — and you may want to, with the wind chill creeping through the front window. Anyway, it doesn’t make much difference whether you’re eating in or taking out; bring your plastic container to one of the narrow counters and chow down with the fittingly loose and raunchy sounds of roots rock ‘n’ roll in the air.

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